View Full Version : Woody ding repair
7th July 2007, 10:27 AM
What is the best way to repair a minor ding in the deck of a Starboard wood construction board? In my case, the ding (probably caused by my harness hook) is depressed 2-3 mm (I don't think it goes all the way through but there's no way to know for sure, ie, if it leaks or not). I was thinking of filling the defect with clear epoxy and then sanding it a bit. If that's what you suggest, is there a brand you like the best for this type of repair? I've seen one brand (sold by Sailworks) that is a thick gel which you apply and then spray an accelerant onto. If you're familiar with this system, how would it work? If you have a better way to fix this, I'm all ears and I appreciate your help!
8th July 2007, 07:48 AM
Opps, the Sailworks stuff is cyanoacrylate, not epoxy, so I assume it would not be useful for ding repair?
I read the Starboard Products/Assistance/Repair page under the heading Ding Repair and they say to use an epoxy filler (as opposed to epoxy resin) for Dram and Wood.
I can't seem to find a clear epoxy filler - do you know of any? Could I use just clear epoxy resin or will this make an unsatisfactory repair?
Roger, you always seem to know EVERYTHING out there about the best product to use - for a ding in a Starboard wood deck what is the best product to use to get a good cosmetic as well as functional repair (ie, clear if possible)?
I have read of people mixing clear resin and then adding sawdust to get the right wood color. If that turns out to be your suggestion, where can I get some of the Austrailian pine that Starboard uses (obviously I don't need much...).
11th July 2007, 10:31 AM
Probably the best product would be Smith and Co. Penetrating Epoxy
(highly recommended for repairs to wood veneer decks by Eva Holiman "The Board Lady").
Here's a link to Smith & Co.
I'd have to see the actual ding to tell you if it needs to be "filled", but if it does, you can use any commercially available water mixed wood based filler.
First, get some penetrating epoxy into the ding to seal it up.
Then fill it with the wood based filler.
Then another coat of penetrating epoxy (I'd try this on a scrap piece of wood to see if the penetrating epoxy "stains" the filler or not).
Then a small piece of fiberglass clothto give your repair some protection.
Let the glass run a little big, and then just sand it off until it blends with the surrounding area.
For any places where it appears your wood deck has "absorbed" a little water or moisture (evidenced by the color of the underlying/adjacent wood veneer) dry the area out in the sun to restore it's original golden "patina", then coat with a couple of very light coats of the
Smith & Co. Penetrating epoxy.
Hope this helps.
P.S. Sorry for the delayed replay, I drove up to Plattsburgh, NY (Lake Champlain) for a big "A Taste of Windsurfing" Event on July 4th and just got back to Hatteras tonite.
16th July 2007, 07:24 AM
Thanks for your input. I just read your post since getting back from a trip last night so sorry for my late reply.
The penetrating epoxy looks great. However, I've never seen a "water mixed wood based filler". Can you give me an example or a link?
The ding is not very big, a crecsent maybe 1" long by 3 mm thick by 2-3 mm deep. Maybe I can get away without a filler.
Have you ever tried Solarez for a wood deck repair? I have a tube that I forgot about and have never used. The packaging says it's clear and contains a proprietary filler. Supposedly it makes a permanent repair. I was told it's good because unlike some other materials it won't shrink. It would certainly be a lot less work than the more comprehensive repair you described.
16th July 2007, 10:10 AM
I don't like Solarez very much. It doesn't seem to fill/flow very well and must be forced into the damaged area.
Here's a link to some differerent wood fillers and info about them:
Here's a little tube of Minwax filler that might work for you:
this little tube of filler to blend your deck in with the surrounding area, then coat it with a clear epoxy or maybe better still a clear UV stabilized polyurethane floor varnish.
Also here's a link to a online source for the Smith and Co Penetrating Epoxy:http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1269&familyName=Smiths+Cold+CPES+Epoxy
Do the repair correctly the first time, and you won't have to do it over.
Hope this helps,
18th July 2007, 07:44 AM
Thanks, Roger, for the great reapir advice and for the links.
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