View Full Version : Deck Damage

Roly Gardner
6th February 2008, 10:04 PM
Hi Roger,

I wonder if you could help me on a repair issue. Last year, when I first started wearing a harness to get used to the feeling etc, I managed to ding the upper surface of my deck (DRAM I think you call it). As I was getting back on to the board I did not realise that the hook was bearing on the surface and had caused several indentations and one puncture. I did not realise until I got back to shore and was mortified.

Anyway, no water got in and I kind windsurfer gave me some ding stick for the repair. Having made the repair, the board is fine and serviceable. However, my repair is a little "proud" and I wonder if it is possible to sand the surface flush? If so what sort of product would I use and what grade please.I would then need to match in the paint(SB Carve Blue circa 2003) and do not know if I would be able to match this locally or would need to source it from a specialist? Maybe I should just wack a logo transfer on it? I trust that there is nothing that I can do for the indentations?

I suppose that a professional repair would be ideal but am not sure that this would be economic. I will want to upgrade my kit at some point so perhaps I should just hold on to my cash. I would be grateful to receive your thoughts.


7th February 2008, 05:33 AM
Hi Roly,
Perhaps the best tool to use to "fair in" the ding stick that is "proud" would be a smooth hand file.
Once you file the piled up ding stick down fair with the surrounding surface (s) you can take some 180-320 grip wet/dry abrasive paper and sand it lightly to really blend it in and
then add a coat or 2 of paint.
If you have an automotive paint store nearby, you can take the board there and have them run a color match.
Other than the above, you may just have to find a spray can that's the closest match you can get and live with that.
There is no specific Starboard "touch up paint available (darn haz mat shipping rules).
If you check out this link it will give you the Pantone color that's the same as your board, but Pantone is a color system that artists use so good luck finding any epoxy or marine enamel type paint that will match a Pantone color chip.
You might find a Pantone color chip and take that to the automotive paint store, but your board may have faded a bit so taking the board may be the best way.
Here's the link:
Some will tell you to use a power sander to knock down the "proud" spots where your board was repaired, and that might work, but I find that a smooth file gives you alot better control.
Then wet sanding with a sponge sanding block with 180-320 grit to blend in the repair to the surrounding paint, a little fresh paint, and maybe touch it lightly with some 400-600 Wet/Dry.
You can fill in the depressions quite easily, but I don't suggest ding stick (sets up too hard and is very hard to rub back.
Something like Marine Tex or JB Weld (or similar filled epoxy) works quite well and if you use lots of masking tape to "shape" your repair to the surrounding area, it gives you a really nice repair with hadly any filing or sanding to fair the repair to the surroundings.
Hope this helps,

Roly Gardner
7th February 2008, 05:24 PM
Hi Roger,

Thank you for your reply. That helps alot. The only bit that I could not visualise was the masking tape for filling in the indentations. Is this for around the repair to prevent application to the surrounding area or actually over it to sort of hold it in place in the right profile while it goes off/cures?



7th February 2008, 10:41 PM
Hi Roly,
You figured it out pretty well.
Yes, you mask off the areas surrounding the indentations, then you mix up the
thickened epoxy filler and use another layer of tape to "shape" and hold the epoxy
fair with the surrounding area while the epoxy cures.
When you epoxy has hardened, peel off the two layers of tape and your indentation will be nearly level/faired with the surroundings.
The shaping/holding tape is not so important on nearly flat deck areas, but on rails
noses and other "non-flat" areas it works very well.
A little work with a file on the epoxy repair material, a little sanding, a couple of coats of matching paint and you have a professional looking repair.
Hope this helps,