View Full Version : GO questions

4th October 2006, 06:52 AM
I really like my GO 170 as it gets me going in light winds, which are prevalent in the summer. As I am a teacher, the summer is when I get to do most of my windsurfing so planing in lighter winds is a must for me.

Anyway, here are my questions:

1. What size fins(s) do you recommend with a 9.8 sail (someweed and regular fin)?

2. Since I weigh 165 lbs and am an advanced intermediate sailor, which set of footstrap placement do you recommend I use?

3. With 9.8, should I have maststep more towards the back, middle, or front (as a general guide)? Sail is a WindWing formula race sail.

4. The bottom of the board is getting a bit yellowed, esp. on the forward half. How can I clean this off? (I have only used the board a dozen times or so).

thanks for your help.


4th October 2006, 09:48 AM
Hi Dennis778;

I think that I might be able to offer some input on some of your questions, but let's see.

Regarding the use of a weedfin or regular fin, I would select a regular fin, unless weeds are a problem at your local site. A more vertical oriented fin will give you more power, especially if you want to have a windward ability.

In my opinion, footstrap position starts at the rear most positions, and gravitates to more forward posiitions if you feel the need to be more settled. I start with a more aggressive position because it usually represents a more speedy focus. If more control is needed. inboard or more varied positions can be an alternative, especially for some varied sized sailors.

I'm thinking that the mast position for a 9.8 is going to be in the middle to the forward section of the mast track, but I'm projecting at bit because of my inexperience with the GO 170. However, I would start at a point that is more aggressive (more rear in the track) to find the best balance with the sail. Also, how you have rigged the sail says a lot about what you need to do to feel optimum.

I'm not sure about your last question. I've heard about ways to resolve the yellowing, but I can't remember the details at the moment. I hate when that happens, but what can I say. A senior moment. Maybe Roger can offer some valuable input here, since he maintains a healthly stable of gear for hard use.

4th October 2006, 10:15 AM
Hi SteveC,

Thanks for the input. Yes, I do have to use a someweed fin where I sail when the wind is from a southerly direction. When the wind is from a northerly direction, I sail in places that do not require a someweed fin, so I have to have two fins of every size to do things correctly.

I just ordered a 56 cm Gsport (formerly Curtis) someweed fin which is the biggest they make. I really hope it works well. This is all spurred on by this past Saturday when I was sailing in about 8knots (to begin with, it built to a huge 12-14 knots) with a 50 cm someweed and an 8.3 windwing hammer. I was planing, slogging, planing, you know the drill. When all of a sudden this guy on a SB formula board, 10 m sail, and 56 cm someweed fin (he was lucky to have a slightly older Curtis fin made out of carbon and G10 - no longer being made. the new gsport ones are plastic or something) comes blasting by me on a full plane. I want to do that!! (without getting a formula board I hope I can do that with my 9.8 in maybe 10 knots).

anyway, thanks for the input.

btw, you are the same SteveC I see on the hansen sails forum,right?


4th October 2006, 09:01 PM
Hi Dennis,
The 56 cm Someweed will help with your early planing.
Also, when you are able to sail with a vertical race fin, what is the largest size vertical fin you have.
At your weight, a 66 cm should be optimum, but if you really want to get the GO 170 planing early, then a 70 cm fin is the best.
As far as footstrap position, with all of your larger fins and rigs you will need to get the footstraps fully back and out board.
You could do as Steve suggests and use more inboard and forward FS positions, but in my experience, you won't be able to get the full performance from your board as this will move your weight forward and inboard slightly and diminish your ability to hold down larger rigs and to control the larger fins you are using.
It's purely "leverage" here.
If you go with inboard FS, your feet and ankles don't have as much leverage to control the rail to rail (roll axis) trim of your board.
Fore and aft (pitch axis) trim would be affected by moving your footstraps more forward, but it's ususally better to control the pitch trim of your board with mast foot pressure positioning.
If you consider that when you get your boom high enough, your harness lines balanced and the correct length your entire body weight is "suspended" from the rig and your weight is really cantilevered out
to counter balance the combined forward and sideways pressures developed by the rig, then there should be virtually no "weight" on the rear of the board (at least no weight applied by your feet as the leverage is all wrong for you to be able to "push down").
So, getting your center of gravity back on the board. amd well outboard to get your weight off the board and and keep it on the rig with all the force applied at the mast foot to put your board at the correct pitch trim angle for best speed and control.
It the angle isn't right you can't plane well, but you can move the mast foot forward or back to "adjust" the pitch trim.
As far as the "discoloration" of your board that's probably due to something in the water where you sail (where do you sail??) and there are a couple of "strategies" for dealing with it.
Go to a Marine store and get some fiberglass boat hull cleaner.
This will normally remove a tiny amount of finish (it's slightly abrasive) but it contains a wax that will prevent future discoloration.
We've discussed using some mild acids on the forums here before so when they get the search engines working for threads from the older websites you might want to do a search.
Or you can use the finest grade "ScotchBrite" or one of the dishwashing sponge pads thats guaranteed not to hurt teflon or non-stick pans, and simply clean your board, then wax it with a good carnuba car or boat wax.
It will still discolor a little over time, but not as quickly as the wax will seal the paint on your board better and you can always clean it off and re wax.
Getting the discoloration out of the non-skid is impossible, but you have an EVA deck on your GO so that's probaly not a problem.
Also, remember, the discoloration is cosmetic only. The dirty look and yellowing won't slow your board down, but it will look kinda ugly.
Hope this helps,

5th October 2006, 12:02 AM
Hi Dennis778,

Yes, I'm the same steveC on the Hansen Sails forum. I've been sailing Bill's sails for over 20 years now. In fact, I have a 2006 Windwing 8.3 Hammer like you recently purchased (I still haven't removed the cambers yet). Right now I'm waiting for Bill to finalize the designs for the wave sails, as I'm looking to pick up a new Hansen 5.6.

Regarding weedfins, I thought I would mention Wolfgang Lessacher's designs. In particular, I have found the carbon Duo Weed line to be an outstanding weedfin design that performs better than any other weedfins that I've tried. I've owned many True Ames designs since the late 80s, and while they are worthy performers, I can honestly say that I like Lessacher's Duo Weed fins much better. Really excellent windward performance without the tendency to spinout or crab sideways, and I have found that I can do it with significantly smaller sized fins. The 34cm I recently bought performs on a par (light wind efficency and windward ability) with the 20" (50.8 cm) True Ames SB Weed. As a result, Lessacher's fins are much easier to launch in shallow rocky environments, they are a whole lot lighter in weight, and arguably quicker overall. I believe that Lessacher's unique asymmetric foiling is a part of the magic that makes them work so well, and I should point out that they do it without needing the leading edge to be forward of the finbox.

Even though you just ordered the GSport weedfin and probably don't want to think about spending more money on fins at the moment, I'm sure that at some time in the future you will find reason to invest again in more fins (we all do). When you do, I would seriously consider one of Lessacher's Duo Weed fins. You can check them out at the following website.


Lastly, I should point out that Lesssacher's website doesn't show all the sizes that are currently available, so I would encourage direct contact to better understand what's possible.

5th October 2006, 01:52 AM

thanks for the fin info. Just to let you know, after sailing the Hammer 8.3 in both single cam and double cam mode, I am going back to double cam mode. the sail is just much more stable and, except for being a teeny bit heavier, easier to handle and able to handle higher winds with both cams.


thank you for the lengthy and informative response to my questions. There is so much good information in there that I am going to take my time digesting it all. I really appreciate all the "technical" reasons for everything, as I am a physics teacher. In fact, if you don't mind, I am going to find a reason to share quite a bit of your post with my students, if only to show them that there are good reasons to learn physics, and not just to pass a test or two.

btw, the largest vertical fin I have for the GO at the moment is the Drake 560 that came with the board. I haven't yet used it as I haven't yet sailed the GO in a non-weed infested area (south shore of LI).

Also, thanks for the info on cleaning the board. After I posted that question, I immediately thought of using hull cleaner. sorry for wasting your time with that one. Since you asked, I sail on both the south and north shores (depending on wind conditions) of Long Island (NY, USA). the water along the south shore (Great South Bay) is what is causing the board to yellow. oh well, things can't be new forever.

thanks again.


5th October 2006, 06:38 PM
I've picked up some greenish tinge on a new board at low tide sailing shallow waters that have lots of sea weed. I'm using a lot of elbow grease and grain alcohol with paper tissues to take it off. This is very labor intensive, but doesn't hurt the finish. I have also used car wax products to protect my boards with some good results. I'ld stay away from anything abrassive. There's a bathtub cleaner KRC7 which works fine. Rusty Jones Gloss Preserver will restore any mirror shine you many have.