View Full Version : Lessacher Duo 40 for F-Type 148 - Sail Sizes?

18th August 2006, 07:53 PM

On this previous thread:

...you said...

"As far as weed fins, on the F-Type 148 I use a 40 cm Lessacher Duo, a Tangent Dynamics 42 and 46, or a True Ames Shallow Water Weed 44 and 52 cm."

I got the 44 cm and 51 cm True Ames Shallow Water Weed fins, 44 for 7.3/8.5, 51 for 9.5. They are working fine, but the part of the leading edge has a slight gap between the top of the board, even with the little foam pad in there. I am worried that will slow me down, the additional drag that creates. I noticed that the Lessacher Duo does not have any fin protruding in front of the base.

With regards to the 40 cm Lessacher Duo, what size sails do you use that with? And how would you compare that in early planing, top speed and pointing capability versus the T.A. SWW's? Wolfgang's website says the 40 cm is for 10.5+, which I find hard to believe (that it would be even enough for my 9.5). Does that Double Concave Asymmetrical design get more lift with less surface area? (For instance, the surface area of the TA SWW 51 cm is 782 cm, the 44 is 630, and the Lessacher Duo is 515.)



P.S. Loving the 148 versus the 158, thanks again for the detailed comparisons and recommendation...

18th August 2006, 09:24 PM
Hi Pete,
First, If you have a little gap under the "overhang" at the juncture of the
top of the LE and the bottom of your F-148, why not fix that first.
Rub some soap (like "a bar of soap") on the front and rear of your Deep Tuttle fin head, install the fin in the board as you would normally, then remove it and see where the soap residue has gone "shiny". That's were you need a few strokes of a single cut file. Just take off the shiny soap, and a little more.
If the fin root is hitting hard in the box down low on the root then that is
not allowing the front of your fin to drop into the fin box. Repeat the process a few times, and I think your "gap" will disappear.
If the overhang has a definite "incorrect" angle to it, you can easily put wax paper on your board, a little thickened epoxy, Marine Tes, or JB Weld Quik on top of the wax paper, some wax paper on the front of the fin root (so the epoxy doesn't get into the fin cavity and stick your fin permanently) and you can fill that gap. Not to worry if the epoxy sets up in a sort of a "puddle or glob, as you can easily file it back to the shape of the front overhang of your fin. Better still get some sheet or round soft lead material, and shape it so you get a nice "fllet" between the fin overhang and the bottom of your board.File/sand the filler material to give a fairly solid but radiused edge and you won't even need the foam "gasket" any more.
Back to your question though, I find the Lessacher Formula Duo does really well and I can't tell you exactly why Wolfgangs 40 cm Duo seems to have as much or more spin out resistance when compared to larger symmetrical weed fins. Perhaps it's the concave/convex blending into convex/concave that's the "magic" with Wolfgang's designs.
I think the True Ames and the Tangent Reapers go upwind a little better, but it does seem to take more fin area to achieve this.
Wolfgang's fins are as fast if not faster, they just change the "feel" of the board a little as they are so far back behind the fin box.
I'm still trying to get Wolfgang to make some progressive rake "DUO " fins that are set forward. I think that will change the "feel" for the better and may result in the "ultimate weed fin".
He's sent me some photo's of prototypes but I haven't been able to get any fins to test yet.
Since you are not racing, and you do need the shallow water and weed shedding features, the Lessacher Formula Duo 40 cm could be just what you need. You can decide if the "different feel" is OK or not.
If you come to Hatteras, or if I come up your way, let's get in touch and you can try out the Formula Duo I have in my demo fin quiver.
Glad the "comparisons" on the FT-158/FT-148 seem to be working for you
I hope my suggestions were pretty much on the mark, performance wise.
Hope this helps,

round stock

20th August 2006, 08:46 AM

I was able to get the TA SWW 44 to "seat" properly today, with no gap, by tightening the front screw all the way first, and then tightening the back screw just enough so it is snug. If I tighten the back screw so it is torqued down like you normally tighten a fin bolt, the gap appears again. But I just tighten it to be snug and it works fine.

I may still try the Lessacher fin, my 44 occasionally spins out, even with an 8.5 (haven't spun out the 51 yet).

Thanks for the offer to try your demo fin, I will be down in Hatteras in late June again, if you are around I will hook up with you for lessons for me, the wife and/or kids.


20th August 2006, 08:29 PM
Hi Pete,
June is not good.
June is when I tour the Midwest with ATOW and Demos.
Try Hatteras in the fall.
It's wonderful.
Hope this helps,

21st August 2006, 09:05 PM
Hi Pete,
If your fin fits flush when you tighten the front screw, it sounds like the
angle of the overhang is all right, but the Tuttle head may need a little "shimming" to get your fin to fit with the overhang flush but having both the front and rear taper radius's fitting a bit more tightly.
It's like the font angle and the overhang are working to hold the fin perpendicular, but the rear taper radius is either not mating correctly, or there is something slightly off with the angle of the rear taper radius.
Might be a good idea to put some packing tape "shims" on the rear taper radius and see if that doesn't tighten up the rear so you can put the same torque (not very much here) on both screws. I'd suggest putting more tape at the fin blade end of the root to kinda push the fin forward in the box and rotate it a little more toward the front of the board.
If you use this fin in other boards, the shim can work.
If this is the only board you use this fin in, you could replace the tape shim with a thin layer or Marine Tex or JB Weld Quik and then refit your fin so it fits correctly with both screws torqued the same.
Hope this helps,